Near estuaries and harbours, submerged shoals and defence structures impact the exposure to overtopping. These features may be accounted for in two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) numerical models, either based on phase-resolving or phase-average solvers for wave propagation. In between, surfbeat solvers, such as in XBeach, combine an affordable computational cost with the ability to generate and propagate the lon...
At coasts, sandy beach-dune systems act as natural barriers to environmental forcing, preventing coastal flooding and protecting coastal communities. In the context of coastal studies, it is fundamental to identify beach-dune sectors exposed to wave impact to support coastal management and suggest soft engineering interventions. This work examines the morphodynamics of the Mira beach-dune system on the northern...
A wavelet-based method for bathymetry retrieval using a sequence of static images of the surface wave field, as obtained from video imagery, is proposed. Synthetic images of the water surface are generated from a numerical Boussinesq type model simulating the propagation of irregular waves. The spectral analysis is used to retrieve both wave periods and wavelengths by evaluating the spectral peaks in the time a...
The ability to derive bathymetry using remote sensing techniques enables rapid and cost-efficient mapping of large coastal areas. This contribution focuses on the application of both fast Fourier transform (FFT) and wavelet spectral analysis to obtain satellite-derived bathymetry maps of the nearshore, from freely available and easily accessible Sentinel-1 synthetic aperture radar (SAR) data with 10 m pixel res...
A olaria de São Pedro do Corval faz parte da história e da cultura do concelho de Reguengos de Monsaraz. Considerada como o maior centro oleiro do país, a olaria de São Pedro do Corval sempre atraiu visitantes. Os mestres, enquanto moldam o barro à mão, partilham as suas histórias de vida com os visitantes. O presente capítulo descreve a atividade “Oleiro por um Dia” desenvolvido pela Casa do Barro (Centro Inte...
The characterization of wave transformation processes in the nearshore is of paramount importance when it comes to assessing storm and flooding impacts, sediment transportation and deposition, harbors safety or design of coastal protective structures. This study analyzes nonlinear wave parameters on Ofir sandy beach. This beach is located along the northwest Portuguese coast which is a highly energetic coast ex...
High spatial resolution coastal Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) are crucial to assess coastal vulnerability and hazards such as beach erosion, sedimentation, or inundation due to storm surges and sea level rise. This paper explores the possibility to use high spatial-resolution Pleiades (pixel size = 0.7 m) stereoscopic satellite imagery to retrieve a DEM on sandy coastline. A 40-km coastal stretch in the South...
Durante a década de 1920 e o início da de 1930 a cultura visual portuguesa sofreu uma profunda transformação, percetível nos magazines ilustrados de grande circulação. Um dos primeiros traços dessa mudança terá sido o da renovação da Ilustração Portuguesa, em 1921, com um novo diretor, António Ferro, apoiado pelo jornalista e consultor Leitão de Barros. Traziam um programa visual modernizado que...
Espichel-Sines is an embayed coast in SW Portugal, consisting of two capes at both extremities, a tidal inlet and associated ebb tidal delta, a barrier spit, sandy beaches, sea cliffs, and a submarine canyon. Beach berm, backshore, near shore and inner shelf sediment samples were taken. Samples were analyzed for their grain-size compositions. This study ranks the hypothetical sediment sources influences on the ...
This work aims to shed some light on longshore sediment transport (LST) in the highly energetic northwest coast of Portugal. Data achieved through a sand-tracer experiment are compared with data obtained from the original and the new re-evaluated longshore sediment transport formulas (USACE Waterways Experiment Station’s Coastal Engineering and Research Center, Kamphuis, and Bayram bulk formulas) to assess thei...