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Comparative Studies on the Photoreactivity, Efficacy, and Safety of Depigmentin...

Mota, Sandra; Rosa, Gonçalo P.; Barreto, Maria Carmo; Garrido, Jorge; Sousa, Emília; Cruz, Maria T.; Almeida, Isabel F.; Quintas, Clara; Garrido, Jorge

Depigmenting products are increasingly used to counteract skin hyperpigmentation and related psychosocial issues. This study aimed to compare different depigmenting agents—4-butylresorcinol; bakuchiol; tranexamic acid; ascorbyl glucoside; α-arbutin; and ascorbic acid—for photoreactivity; tyrosinase inhibition; and safety. Photoreactivity was assessed using the Reactive Oxygen Species assay. In vitro tyrosinase ...


Polysaccharide-Based Carriers for Pulmonary Insulin Delivery: The Potential of ...

Valente, Sara A.; Lopes, Guido R.; Ferreira, Isabel; Galrinho, Miguel F.; Almeida, Margarida; Ferreira, Paula; Cruz, Maria T.; Coimbra, Manuel A.

Non-invasive routes for insulin delivery are emerging as alternatives to currently painful subcutaneous injections. For pulmonary delivery, formulations may be in powdered particle form, using carriers such as polysaccharides to stabilise the active principle. Roasted coffee beans and spent coffee grounds (SCG) are rich in polysaccharides, namely galactomannans and arabinogalactans. In this work, the polysaccha...


A Hydrophilic Sulfated Resveratrol Derivative for Topical Application: Sensitiz...

Jesus, Ana; Sebastião, Ana I.; Brites, Gonçalo; Correia-da-Silva, Marta; Cidade, Honorina; Cruz, Maria T.; Sousa, Emília; Almeida, Isabel F.

Resveratrol (RSV), a naturally occurring metabolite, is widely used in skincare products, but its hydrophobicity impairs its own incorporation into cosmetic formulations. RSV-GS is a synthetic hydrophilic sulfated glycosylated derivative inspired by marine natural products that present a lower cytotoxicity than RSV while exhibiting similar levels of bioactivity. Herein, we predict the skin sensitization potenti...


Exploiting the Integrated Valorization of Eucalyptus globulus Leaves: Chemical ...

Oliveira, Cátia S. D.; Moreira, Patrícia; Cruz, Maria T.; Pereira, Cláudia M. F.; Silva, Artur M. S.; Santos, Sónia A. O.; Silvestre, Armando J. D.

E. globulus leaves have been mainly exploited for essential oil recovery or for energy generation in industrial pulp mills, neglecting the abundance of valuable families of extractives, namely, triterpenic acids, that might open new ways for the integrated valorization of this biomass. Therefore, this study highlights the lipophilic characterization of E. globulus leaves before and after hydrodistillation, aimi...


How to Promote Skin Repair? In-Depth Look at Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Strate...

Torres, Ana; Rego, Liliana; Martins, Márcia S.; Ferreira, Marta S.; Cruz, Maria T.; Sousa, Emília; Almeida, Isabel F.

Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products' composition w...


Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Jesus, Ana; Mota, Sandra; Torres, Ana; Cruz, Maria T.; Sousa, Emília; Almeida, Isabel F.; Cidade, Honorina

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terres...


An integrated green process for the extraction of triterpenic acids fromEucalyp...

Oliveira, Cátia S. D.; Moreira, Patrícia; Cruz, Maria T.; Pereira, Cláudia M. F.; Gaspar, Alexandre; Neto, Carlos Pascoal; Pinto, Paula C. R. O.

In this study the viability of the integrated exploitation of E. globulus leaf essential oil and triterpenic acids was evaluated through the development of a novel extraction process that can be implemented sequentially in a biorefinery context. Thus, essential oil (EO) collected by hydrodistillation was used for the first time as a bio-based solvent to recover triterpenic acids (TTAs) from the residue resultin...


Comparative studies on the photoreactivity, efficacy, and safety of depigmentin...

Mota, Sandra; Rosa, Gonçalo P.; Barreto, Maria Carmo; Garrido, Jorge; Sousa, Emília; Cruz, Maria T.; Almeida, Isabel F.; Quintas, Clara

Depigmenting products are increasingly used to counteract skin hyperpigmentation and related psychosocial issues. This study aimed to compare different depigmenting agents—4-butylresorcinol; bakuchiol; tranexamic acid; ascorbyl glucoside; α-arbutin; and ascorbic acid—for photoreactivity; tyrosinase inhibition; and safety. Photoreactivity was assessed using the Reactive Oxygen Species assay. In vitro tyrosinase ...


UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

Jesus, Ana; Sousa, Emília; Cruz, Maria T.; Cidade, Honorina; Lobo, José M. Sousa; Almeida, Isabel F.

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV ...


Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens

Resende, Diana I. S. P.; Jesus, Ana; Lobo, José M. Sousa; Sousa, Emília; Cruz, Maria T.; Cidade, Honorina; Almeida, Isabel F.

The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority fo...


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