This paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The for...
O presente relatório de progresso descreve o trabalho desenvolvido pelas equipas da Fundação da Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa (FFCUL) e do Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC) durante o quinto semestre do projecto “Consultoria para a Criação e Implementação de um Sistema de Monitorização do Litoral Abrangido pela Área de Jurisdição da ARH do Tejo”. São descritas as acções levadas a ...
In the past decade, two-dimensional (2DH) morphodynamic modeling systems were developed to simulate the morphological changes due to the combined action of waves, tides and winds. In spite of some significant successes, they are unable to predict complex morphological behaviors, such as inlet infillings in highly dynamic environments during winter energetic wave conditions. For these reasons, the state of the a...
This work investigates historical variation and trends in storm climate for the South Portugal region, using data from wave buoy measurements and from modelling, for the period 1952 to 2009. Several storm parameters (annual number of storms; annual number of days with storms; annual maximum and mean individual storm duration and annual 99.8th percentile of significant wave height) were used to analyse: (1) hist...
Hydrodynamics and water renewal of intermittent coastal streams are highly variable, at various time scales, due to the very active morphodynamic behavior of their inlets. Due to this strong dynamics, the pathways of water-borne materials – and the consequences of contaminated discharges – can depend strongly on the morphology and environmental conditions. Predicting the fate of contaminants in these systems re...
Portuguese coasts exhibit many complex and contrasting tidal inlets of economic and environmental relevance. Due to the strong dynamics of these inlets, associated to a severe wave climate and a meso-tidal range, the prediction of their evolution remains a challenging task, in particular at yearly time scales. This paper presents a partially parallelized morphodynamic modeling system and analyses its performanc...
This work presents results from the use of Artificial Neural Networks (ANN) to improve wave models hindcasting capacity off the South coast of Portugal. Comparison of the original model results with field measurements showed significant non linear deviations. To compensate for such deviations, a three-layer Multilayer Perceptron (MLP – a type of an ANN) was trained, using the Levenberg-Marquardt method, to impr...
Ocean surface gravity waves play a major role in many engineering and environmental problems, both in the open ocean and in coastal zones. Therefore, it is essential to improve our knowledge on spatial and temporal variability of wave climate. This study aims at investigating this variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean (25º W–0º Wand 30º N 60º N), using a 57-year hindcast (1953–2009) obtained with a spect...