Publicação
Formulation and characterization of sustainable cosmetics
| Resumo: | In this dissertation, the relation between sustainability and cosmetic industry is presented, and strategies to the development of sustainable cosmetics are discussed and tested. This project, in an initial phase, had as main assumptions the development of two complementary sustainability tools that aim to accelerate the entire replacement process. The main goal behind the development of the “Microsoft Excel tool – sustainability calculator” was to realize to what extent the product to be developed or already existing in the market is sustainable with real calculations. It is a promising tool that will help formulators to make the most appropriate decisions in terms of sustainability, and consequently reduce the impact of their products and practices. Moreover, this tool allows to evaluate sustainability in one go, which will facilitate the work of the formulators and reduce the time of analysis and decision. Complementary to the sustainability calculator, a tool in specific for raw materials was created that would lead to the adequate selection of alternative ingredients (i.e. sustainable alternatives for petrolatum and dimethicone) in terms of performance in the formulation. The crossing between the data extracted from the tools and the information obtained in the literature led to the attempt to develop sustainable formulations, being one of the main objectives to evaluate the influence of the replacement of synthetic ingredients, namely hydrocarbons, silicones and preservatives, by sustainable ingredients on its physical, chemical and microbiological features. Additionally, the safety, biological efficacy and sensorial aspects of the formulations developed were assessed by using in vivo studies. To complement the study was designed an adequate scale-up procedure and the stability of the final formulations was analyzed. The replacement of synthetic ingredients for sustainable alternatives has effectively an impact on the structural properties of emulsions, and the physic-chemical properties of the selected ingredients have been shown to have a considerable influence on the final structure of the emulsions, especially in terms of rheological behavior. However, it was proven that with adequate selection strategies it is possible to develop appealing sustainable formulations with high standards that are stable for a minimum period of 3 months. |
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| Autores principais: | Bom, Sara Castanheira Rodrigues Marques |
| Assunto: | Cosmetics Moisturizers Sustainability Sustainability tool Teses de mestrado - 2018 |
| Ano: | 2018 |
| País: | Portugal |
| Tipo de documento: | dissertação de mestrado |
| Tipo de acesso: | acesso aberto |
| Instituição associada: | Universidade de Lisboa |
| Idioma: | inglês |
| Origem: | Repositório da Universidade de Lisboa |
| Resumo: | In this dissertation, the relation between sustainability and cosmetic industry is presented, and strategies to the development of sustainable cosmetics are discussed and tested. This project, in an initial phase, had as main assumptions the development of two complementary sustainability tools that aim to accelerate the entire replacement process. The main goal behind the development of the “Microsoft Excel tool – sustainability calculator” was to realize to what extent the product to be developed or already existing in the market is sustainable with real calculations. It is a promising tool that will help formulators to make the most appropriate decisions in terms of sustainability, and consequently reduce the impact of their products and practices. Moreover, this tool allows to evaluate sustainability in one go, which will facilitate the work of the formulators and reduce the time of analysis and decision. Complementary to the sustainability calculator, a tool in specific for raw materials was created that would lead to the adequate selection of alternative ingredients (i.e. sustainable alternatives for petrolatum and dimethicone) in terms of performance in the formulation. The crossing between the data extracted from the tools and the information obtained in the literature led to the attempt to develop sustainable formulations, being one of the main objectives to evaluate the influence of the replacement of synthetic ingredients, namely hydrocarbons, silicones and preservatives, by sustainable ingredients on its physical, chemical and microbiological features. Additionally, the safety, biological efficacy and sensorial aspects of the formulations developed were assessed by using in vivo studies. To complement the study was designed an adequate scale-up procedure and the stability of the final formulations was analyzed. The replacement of synthetic ingredients for sustainable alternatives has effectively an impact on the structural properties of emulsions, and the physic-chemical properties of the selected ingredients have been shown to have a considerable influence on the final structure of the emulsions, especially in terms of rheological behavior. However, it was proven that with adequate selection strategies it is possible to develop appealing sustainable formulations with high standards that are stable for a minimum period of 3 months. |
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