Publicação
Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections
| Resumo: | Coated fabrics featuring plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p-PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) coatings are widespread in fashion collections. These materials pose significant conservation challenges due to their production and chemical variability, coupled with issues of rapid deterioration. Despite their prevalence and instability, systematic research on their composition and ageing behaviour remains limited, as most studies rely mainly on infrared spectroscopy and cover a small number of cases, which cannot fully capture their chemical complexity. This knowledge gap represents a pressing issue, as it hampers the development of well-informed conservation strategies. This research addresses this gap by investigating a representative set of twenty-five historical and contemporary fabrics from the 1990s onwards, coated with aromatic and aliphatic polyester-based TPUs, as well as phthalate- and terephthalate-plasticised PVCs. Samples were characterised using a multi-analytical approach combining optical microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, pyrolysis–gas chromatography/mass spectrometry, and X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. This integrated strategy provided unprecedented detail on the chemical variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics, enabling the identification of primary components, additives, degradation products, and mixed compositions. This study underscores the value of multi-technique analysis to capture the complexity of such coated fabrics, providing essential knowledge for further research and development of effective conservation strategies for fashion collections. |
|---|---|
| Autores principais: | Ferreira, Joana Tomás |
| Outros Autores: | Rizzo, Adriana; Ferreira, Gisela; Carvalho, Fernanda; Macário, David; França de Sá, Susana |
| Assunto: | Coatings Heritage collections Infrared spectroscopy Optical microscopy Plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry Textiles Thermoplastic polyurethane X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy Conservation Archaeology Materials Science (miscellaneous) |
| Ano: | 2025 |
| País: | Portugal |
| Tipo de documento: | artigo |
| Tipo de acesso: | acesso aberto |
| Instituição associada: | Universidade Nova de Lisboa |
| Idioma: | inglês |
| Origem: | Repositório Institucional da UNL |
| _version_ | 1868984213338849280 |
|---|---|
| author | Ferreira, Joana Tomás |
| author2 | Rizzo, Adriana Ferreira, Gisela Carvalho, Fernanda Macário, David França de Sá, Susana |
| author2_role | author author author author author |
| author_facet | Ferreira, Joana Tomás Rizzo, Adriana Ferreira, Gisela Carvalho, Fernanda Macário, David França de Sá, Susana |
| author_role | author |
| contributor_name_str_mv | DCR - Departamento de Conservação e Restauro LAQV@REQUIMTE CENIMAT-i3N - Centro de Investigação de Materiais (Lab. Associado I3N) VICARTE - Vidro e Cerâmica para as Artes MDPI - Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute RUN |
| country_str | PT |
| creators_json_txt | [{\"Person.name\":\"Ferreira, Joana Tomás\"},{\"Person.name\":\"Rizzo, Adriana\"},{\"Person.name\":\"Ferreira, Gisela\"},{\"Person.name\":\"Carvalho, Fernanda\"},{\"Person.name\":\"Macário, David\"},{\"Person.name\":\"França de Sá, Susana\"}] |
| datacite.contributors.contributor.contributorName.fl_str_mv | DCR - Departamento de Conservação e Restauro LAQV@REQUIMTE CENIMAT-i3N - Centro de Investigação de Materiais (Lab. Associado I3N) VICARTE - Vidro e Cerâmica para as Artes MDPI - Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute RUN |
| datacite.creators.creator.creatorName.fl_str_mv | Ferreira, Joana Tomás Rizzo, Adriana Ferreira, Gisela Carvalho, Fernanda Macário, David França de Sá, Susana |
| datacite.date.Accepted.fl_str_mv | 2025-12-04T00:00:00Z |
| datacite.date.available.fl_str_mv | 2026-02-11T13:27:01Z |
| datacite.date.embargoed.fl_str_mv | 2026-02-11T13:27:01Z |
| datacite.rights.fl_str_mv | http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 |
| datacite.subjects.subject.fl_str_mv | Coatings Heritage collections Infrared spectroscopy Optical microscopy Plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry Textiles Thermoplastic polyurethane X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy Conservation Archaeology Materials Science (miscellaneous) |
| datacite.titles.title.fl_str_mv | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections Exploring Material Subtleties Through a Multi-Analytical Approach |
| dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv | DCR - Departamento de Conservação e Restauro LAQV@REQUIMTE CENIMAT-i3N - Centro de Investigação de Materiais (Lab. Associado I3N) VICARTE - Vidro e Cerâmica para as Artes MDPI - Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute RUN |
| dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv | Ferreira, Joana Tomás Rizzo, Adriana Ferreira, Gisela Carvalho, Fernanda Macário, David França de Sá, Susana |
| dc.date.Accepted.fl_str_mv | 2025-12-04T00:00:00Z |
| dc.date.available.fl_str_mv | 2026-02-11T13:27:01Z |
| dc.date.embargoed.fl_str_mv | 2026-02-11T13:27:01Z |
| dc.format.none.fl_str_mv | application/pdf |
| dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv | http://hdl.handle.net/10362/200284 |
| dc.language.none.fl_str_mv | eng |
| dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv | http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 |
| dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv | Coatings Heritage collections Infrared spectroscopy Optical microscopy Plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry Textiles Thermoplastic polyurethane X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy Conservation Archaeology Materials Science (miscellaneous) |
| dc.title.fl_str_mv | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections Exploring Material Subtleties Through a Multi-Analytical Approach |
| dc.type.none.fl_str_mv | http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 |
| description | Coated fabrics featuring plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p-PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) coatings are widespread in fashion collections. These materials pose significant conservation challenges due to their production and chemical variability, coupled with issues of rapid deterioration. Despite their prevalence and instability, systematic research on their composition and ageing behaviour remains limited, as most studies rely mainly on infrared spectroscopy and cover a small number of cases, which cannot fully capture their chemical complexity. This knowledge gap represents a pressing issue, as it hampers the development of well-informed conservation strategies. This research addresses this gap by investigating a representative set of twenty-five historical and contemporary fabrics from the 1990s onwards, coated with aromatic and aliphatic polyester-based TPUs, as well as phthalate- and terephthalate-plasticised PVCs. Samples were characterised using a multi-analytical approach combining optical microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, pyrolysis–gas chromatography/mass spectrometry, and X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. This integrated strategy provided unprecedented detail on the chemical variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics, enabling the identification of primary components, additives, degradation products, and mixed compositions. This study underscores the value of multi-technique analysis to capture the complexity of such coated fabrics, providing essential knowledge for further research and development of effective conservation strategies for fashion collections. |
| dirty | 0 |
| eu_rights_str_mv | openAccess |
| format | article |
| fulltext.url.fl_str_mv | https://run.unl.pt/bitstreams/1ae627e6-13b6-4d9f-8df3-779bbfed6f4f/download |
| id | run_9869a44e7ac3bc63cdcd4b2cd56cc08b |
| identifier.url.fl_str_mv | http://hdl.handle.net/10362/200284 |
| inst_facet_str | urn:organizationAcronym:unl{{{_:::_}}}Universidade Nova de Lisboa |
| instacron_str | unl |
| institution | Universidade Nova de Lisboa |
| instname_str | Universidade Nova de Lisboa |
| language | eng |
| network_acronym_str | run |
| network_name_str | Repositório Institucional da UNL |
| oai_identifier_str | oai:run.unl.pt:10362/200284 |
| organization_str_mv | urn:organizationAcronym:unl |
| person_str_mv | Ferreira, Joana Tomás Rizzo, Adriana Ferreira, Gisela Carvalho, Fernanda Macário, David França de Sá, Susana |
| publishDate | 2025 |
| repo_facet_str | urn:repositoryAcronym:run{{{_:::_}}}Repositório Institucional da UNL |
| reponame_str | Repositório Institucional da UNL |
| repository_id_str | urn:repositoryAcronym:run |
| service_str_mv | urn:repositoryAcronym:run |
| spelling | engenCoated fabrics featuring plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p-PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) coatings are widespread in fashion collections. These materials pose significant conservation challenges due to their production and chemical variability, coupled with issues of rapid deterioration. Despite their prevalence and instability, systematic research on their composition and ageing behaviour remains limited, as most studies rely mainly on infrared spectroscopy and cover a small number of cases, which cannot fully capture their chemical complexity. This knowledge gap represents a pressing issue, as it hampers the development of well-informed conservation strategies. This research addresses this gap by investigating a representative set of twenty-five historical and contemporary fabrics from the 1990s onwards, coated with aromatic and aliphatic polyester-based TPUs, as well as phthalate- and terephthalate-plasticised PVCs. Samples were characterised using a multi-analytical approach combining optical microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, pyrolysis–gas chromatography/mass spectrometry, and X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. This integrated strategy provided unprecedented detail on the chemical variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics, enabling the identification of primary components, additives, degradation products, and mixed compositions. This study underscores the value of multi-technique analysis to capture the complexity of such coated fabrics, providing essential knowledge for further research and development of effective conservation strategies for fashion collections.application/pdfenVinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion CollectionsSubtitleenExploring Material Subtleties Through a Multi-Analytical ApproachFerreira, Joana TomásRizzo, AdrianaFerreira, GiselaCarvalho, FernandaMacário, DavidFrança de Sá, SusanaDCR - Departamento de Conservação e RestauroLAQV@REQUIMTECENIMAT-i3N - Centro de Investigação de Materiais (Lab. Associado I3N)VICARTE - Vidro e Cerâmica para as ArtesMDPI - Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing InstituteHostingInstitutionOrganizationalRUNe-mailmailto:run@unl.ptrun@unl.ptISSNIsPartOf2571-9408URNIsPartOfPURE: 152824222URNIsPartOfPURE UUID: 2f3bd19f-282a-4f38-8077-a144bd5bba2dURNIsPartOfScopus: 105025952398URNIsPartOfWOS: 001646636200001URNIsPartOfORCID: /0000-0003-2445-9361/work/205460533DOIIsPartOf10.3390/heritage81205112026-02-11T13:27:01Z2025-12-042025-12-04T00:00:00ZHandlehttp://hdl.handle.net/10362/200284http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2open accessCoatingsHeritage collectionsInfrared spectroscopyOptical microscopyPlasticised poly(vinyl chloride)Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometryTextilesThermoplastic polyurethaneX-ray fluorescence spectroscopyConservationArchaeologyMaterials Science (miscellaneous)11476018 bytesliteraturehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2application/pdffulltexthttps://run.unl.pt/bitstreams/1ae627e6-13b6-4d9f-8df3-779bbfed6f4f/download |
| spellingShingle | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections Ferreira, Joana Tomás Coatings Heritage collections Infrared spectroscopy Optical microscopy Plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry Textiles Thermoplastic polyurethane X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy Conservation Archaeology Materials Science (miscellaneous) |
| status | SINGLETON |
| subject.fl_str_mv | Coatings Heritage collections Infrared spectroscopy Optical microscopy Plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry Textiles Thermoplastic polyurethane X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy Conservation Archaeology Materials Science (miscellaneous) |
| title | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections |
| title_full | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections |
| title_fullStr | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections |
| title_full_unstemmed | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections |
| title_short | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections |
| title_sort | Vinyl- and Polyurethane-Coated Fabrics in Fashion Collections |
| topic | Coatings Heritage collections Infrared spectroscopy Optical microscopy Plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry Textiles Thermoplastic polyurethane X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy Conservation Archaeology Materials Science (miscellaneous) |
| topic_facet | Coatings Heritage collections Infrared spectroscopy Optical microscopy Plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry Textiles Thermoplastic polyurethane X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy Conservation Archaeology Materials Science (miscellaneous) |
| url | http://hdl.handle.net/10362/200284 |
| visible | 1 |