Document details

Phenolic acids, cinnamic acid, and ergosterol as cosmeceutical ingredients: Stabilization by microencapsulation to ensure sustained bioactivity

Author(s): Taofiq, Oludemi ; Heleno, Sandrina A. ; Calhelha, Ricardo C. ; Fernandes, Isabel P. ; Alves, Maria José ; Barros, Lillian ; González-Paramás, Ana María ; Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R. ; Barreiro, M.F.

Date: 2019

Persistent ID: http://hdl.handle.net/10198/20293

Origin: Biblioteca Digital da UPB

Subject(s): Bioactive compounds; Bioactive properties; Controlled release; Cosmeceuticals; Microencapsulation


Description

The global cosmetic industry is constantly searching for new ingredients with multifunctional properties. In this context, phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric, and protocatechuic acids), cinnamic acid and ergosterol were evaluated for their anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities, and thereafter microencapsulated by the atomization/coagulation technique. After characterization (morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency), the microencapsulated compounds were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance evaluated comparatively with the use of the free forms. The cosmeceutical formulations were checked regarding the presence of the bioactive compounds by HPLC-DAD, and for their physicochemical properties (colour and pH). The obtained results demonstrated the anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities of the individual compounds that, after incorporation, have shown a decreasing pattern along time. On the contrary, the formulations incorporating the microencapsulated bioactive compounds gave rise to a gradual release, ensuring bioactivity maintenance. These results underline the advantage of using microencapsulation to preserve and ensure the controlled release of bioactive species in cosmeceutical formulations.

Document Type Journal article
Language English
Contributor(s) Biblioteca Digital da UPB
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