Publicação
Development of cosmetic functional formulations incorporating hyaluronic acid
| Resumo: | The cosmetic industry has been expanding continuously, driven by demand for innovative, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. In this context, this work aimed to develop particles composed of hyaluronic acid (HA) and Collagen type I (Col) to act as Pickering stabilisers in cosmetic emulsions. The particles were prepared using different methods (direct mixing - mix and droping - drop), with the most promising dispersions obtained after high-shear homogenisation: P_17_Mix_Ultra and P_17_Drop_Ultra. These formulations exhibited particle sizes of 12.30 ± 3.73 μm and 2.55 ± 0.08 μm, respectively. Both showed highly negative zeta potentials (–37.73 ± 1.50 mV for the mix and –37.72 ± 0.56 mV for the drop), confirming colloidal stability. Wettability tests demonstrated strong oil affinity, with contact angles of 128.30 ± 1.05° and 137.22 ± 3.20°. The drop method stood out for producing smaller, more homogeneous particles. Pickering emulsions were then prepared using sweet almond oil, Miglyol 812, and olive oil. Olive oil originated the most stable systems, and emulsions with a higher oil fraction (70:30 oil-to-aqueous ratio) presented superior stability compared to those with lower oil content. Analyses of emulsion type, colourimetry, creaming index, droplet size, microscopy, zeta potential, and rheology confirmed the better performance of olive oil-based formulations obtained by the drop method. The formulation E_70_OO_17d (drop method, olive oil, 70:30 ratio) achieved the most promising overall results, with a creaming index of 10% after 30 days, homogeneous droplets, and rheological behaviour exhibiting viscoelastic properties comparable to those of commercial products. In conclusion, HA-Col particles proved to be efficient Pickering stabilisers, enabling the development of stable emulsions. The most promising formulation, E_70_OO_17d, was particularly suitable for moisturising and anti-ageing cosmetic applications, where hyaluronic acid provides hydration and regeneration while Col enhances elasticity and repair. |
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| Autores principais: | Silva, Thaís Rossetto Cordeiro da |
| Assunto: | Hyaluronic acid Collagen Pickering emulsions Cosmetic Skincare |
| Ano: | 2025 |
| País: | Portugal |
| Tipo de documento: | dissertação de mestrado |
| Tipo de acesso: | acesso embargado |
| Instituição associada: | Instituto Politécnico de Bragança |
| Idioma: | inglês |
| Origem: | Biblioteca Digital do IPB |
| Resumo: | The cosmetic industry has been expanding continuously, driven by demand for innovative, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. In this context, this work aimed to develop particles composed of hyaluronic acid (HA) and Collagen type I (Col) to act as Pickering stabilisers in cosmetic emulsions. The particles were prepared using different methods (direct mixing - mix and droping - drop), with the most promising dispersions obtained after high-shear homogenisation: P_17_Mix_Ultra and P_17_Drop_Ultra. These formulations exhibited particle sizes of 12.30 ± 3.73 μm and 2.55 ± 0.08 μm, respectively. Both showed highly negative zeta potentials (–37.73 ± 1.50 mV for the mix and –37.72 ± 0.56 mV for the drop), confirming colloidal stability. Wettability tests demonstrated strong oil affinity, with contact angles of 128.30 ± 1.05° and 137.22 ± 3.20°. The drop method stood out for producing smaller, more homogeneous particles. Pickering emulsions were then prepared using sweet almond oil, Miglyol 812, and olive oil. Olive oil originated the most stable systems, and emulsions with a higher oil fraction (70:30 oil-to-aqueous ratio) presented superior stability compared to those with lower oil content. Analyses of emulsion type, colourimetry, creaming index, droplet size, microscopy, zeta potential, and rheology confirmed the better performance of olive oil-based formulations obtained by the drop method. The formulation E_70_OO_17d (drop method, olive oil, 70:30 ratio) achieved the most promising overall results, with a creaming index of 10% after 30 days, homogeneous droplets, and rheological behaviour exhibiting viscoelastic properties comparable to those of commercial products. In conclusion, HA-Col particles proved to be efficient Pickering stabilisers, enabling the development of stable emulsions. The most promising formulation, E_70_OO_17d, was particularly suitable for moisturising and anti-ageing cosmetic applications, where hyaluronic acid provides hydration and regeneration while Col enhances elasticity and repair. |
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