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Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach

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Resumo:Non-linear wave-wave interactions between sea-swell waves (0.5 < f < 0.04 Hz) and infragravity waves (0.04 < f < 0.004 Hz) are studied in detail from field data using bispectral analysis. This methodology allowed to understand the direction and magnitude of the non-linear energy transfers within the spectrum. Field measurements of pressure data were collected at S. Jacinto beach during a full tidal cycle on a cross-shore transect at the subtidal and intertidal zone. Bispectral estimates showed triad interactions between two sea-swell waves and one infra-gravity wave at the surf zone. The non-linear transfers were out of phase which indicates the presence of bound waves. These results evidenced the presence of energy transfers from infra-gravity to sea-swell band where the sea-swell waves are more energetic, during shoaling and breaking.
Autores principais:Mendes, D.
Outros Autores:Pires Silva, A.; Fortunato, A. B.; Pinto, J. P.
Assunto:Infra-gravity waves Non-linear wave-wave interactions Bispectral analysis Wave observations
Ano:2016
País:Portugal
Tipo de documento:documento de conferência
Tipo de acesso:acesso aberto
Instituição associada:Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil
Idioma:inglês
Origem:Repositório Científico do LNEC
Descrição
Resumo:Non-linear wave-wave interactions between sea-swell waves (0.5 < f < 0.04 Hz) and infragravity waves (0.04 < f < 0.004 Hz) are studied in detail from field data using bispectral analysis. This methodology allowed to understand the direction and magnitude of the non-linear energy transfers within the spectrum. Field measurements of pressure data were collected at S. Jacinto beach during a full tidal cycle on a cross-shore transect at the subtidal and intertidal zone. Bispectral estimates showed triad interactions between two sea-swell waves and one infra-gravity wave at the surf zone. The non-linear transfers were out of phase which indicates the presence of bound waves. These results evidenced the presence of energy transfers from infra-gravity to sea-swell band where the sea-swell waves are more energetic, during shoaling and breaking.